The Daily Buck
Make It Last · 65+

You Saved for 40 Years. Now What Do You Actually Spend?

The whole game just flipped. For a lifetime the goal was to put money in; now the hard question is how much you can safely take out — without the fear of running short. Here's a plan that answers it.

JR
By Jordan Reed · The Daily Buck Published Oct 22, 2026 · 6 min read
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Key takeaways

For your entire working life, the instruction was the same: save more, put money in, don't touch it. You got good at it. And then you retire, and overnight the question inverts into one nobody really trained you for — how much of this can I actually spend? Take too much and you risk running short later; take too little and you deny yourself the retirement you spent decades funding. The fear of running out is one of the most common anxieties in retirement. A plan is how you quiet it.

Turn your savings into a paycheck

The goal is to convert a big, intimidating lump sum into something that feels like a steady income. Rather than withdrawing money in unpredictable chunks, you set a sustainable rate and draw from it on a regular schedule — monthly, like a paycheck. Financial researchers have long used guidelines in the ballpark of around 4% of your savings in the first year (adjusted for inflation after that) as a starting point for making money last across a long retirement. Treat it as a conversation-starter, not gospel — the right number depends on your age, your mix of investments, and your other income.

Keep a cash cushion

Markets go down sometimes, and the worst thing you can do is be forced to sell investments while they're low just to pay the electric bill. The fix is a buffer: keep one to two years of spending money in cash or a high-yield savings account, separate from your invested money. When markets dip, you live off the cushion and give your investments time to recover instead of selling at the bottom.

Know the withdrawal order

Which accounts you tap, and in what order, affects how much you keep after taxes. A common general approach is to spend from taxable accounts first, then tax-deferred accounts (like a traditional 401(k) or IRA), and leave Roth accounts for last, since they keep growing tax-free. Your own best order depends on your tax situation, so this is a great thing to confirm with a tax professional.

Don't forget Required Minimum Distributions

Here's a rule you can't ignore: with traditional IRAs and most workplace retirement plans, the IRS requires you to start taking required minimum distributions (RMDs) at age 73. Your first one can be delayed to April 1 of the following year, but after that they're annual. Miss one and the penalty is steep — a 25% excise tax on the amount you should have taken (reduced to 10% if you correct it promptly). Roth IRAs, by contrast, have no RMDs during your lifetime.

Make Social Security part of the plan

Your Social Security benefit is guaranteed, inflation-adjusted income for life — a valuable anchor. As the Social Security Administration explains, claiming later (up to age 70) increases your monthly amount. Coordinating when you claim with how you draw down savings can meaningfully change how long your money lasts.

The honest bottom line

Making your money last isn't about a single magic number — it's a system: a steady withdrawal rate, a cash cushion so you never sell low, a sensible account order, and a yearly check-in. Build that, and "will I run out?" turns from a fear into a plan.

Your first step today

Add up your guaranteed income — Social Security and any pension — and compare it to your essential yearly expenses. The gap is what your savings need to cover. Knowing that one number is the foundation of every withdrawal decision that follows, and it's worth reviewing with a trusted professional as you build the full plan.

Frequently asked questions

How much can I safely withdraw from my retirement savings each year?

A long-used starting guideline is around 4% of your savings in the first year, adjusted for inflation afterward, as a rough rate aimed at making money last across a long retirement. It's a starting point, not a guarantee — your sustainable rate depends on your age, investment mix, and other income, so it's worth confirming with a professional.

What are Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs)?

RMDs are amounts the IRS requires you to withdraw each year from traditional IRAs and most workplace retirement plans, generally starting at age 73. Your first can be delayed to April 1 of the following year. Missing one carries a 25% excise tax on the shortfall (10% if corrected promptly). Roth IRAs have no RMDs during the owner's lifetime.

Which accounts should I withdraw from first?

A common general order is taxable accounts first, then tax-deferred accounts like a traditional 401(k) or IRA, and Roth accounts last so they can keep growing tax-free. The best sequence for you depends on your tax picture, so it's a good question to work through with a tax professional.

Why keep a cash cushion in retirement?

So a market downturn doesn't force you to sell investments at a low point to cover everyday expenses. Keeping one to two years of spending in cash or a high-yield savings account lets you live off the cushion while your investments recover, protecting your long-term savings from bad timing.

When should I claim Social Security?

You can claim as early as 62, but your benefit is permanently reduced; waiting increases it, up to age 70. Because it's guaranteed, inflation-adjusted income for life, coordinating your claiming age with your withdrawal plan can extend how long your savings last. The right timing depends on your health, savings, and income needs.

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Sources & further reading

  1. Internal Revenue Service — Retirement plan and IRA required minimum distributions FAQs.
  2. Social Security Administration — Full retirement age and delaying benefits.

Government sources, accessed October 2026. Rules and figures change — check the primary source for current details. This article is general education and not a substitute for personalized tax or financial advice.

This article is general education, not personalized financial advice.